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Saturday, 30 April 2016

Shake, Rattle and Roll

Over the past few passages we have worked methodically at silent sailing. Lying in bed and listening to the ocean whooshing by the hull is music to our ears - until there this peace is interrupted.

We bubble wrap most glass jars and bottles, and discretely shove a tea towel into a cupboard to stop things dancing around when we need to. Grippy rubber and silicone pads stop things rolling around on flat surfaces. Then there is a clunk, clunk from a starboard cupboard. Could it be that last bottle of very fine South African Pinotage that was stowed at the last minute?

Then there is the creaking on deck from the new genoa sheaves. As the wind fills out the genoa, a steady groaning on deck permeates the whole of the boat. We had these sheaves replaced by Associated Rigging in Cape Town. They had groaned all the way down and across the Indian Ocean last year and after inspection showed some cracking and lots of wear.

Armed with spanners and Harken One Drop, Neil sat on deck and lubricated the bolts inside the new sheaves. The groaning immediately stopped - you just have to love a product that lives up to its name. Back to silent sailing, what a joy.

We've had a magic sailing day, covered 165 nautical miles in the past 24 hours. Only 1133 miles to go to St. Helena.

Shake, Rattle and Roll

Over the past few passages we have worked methodically at silent sailing. Lying in bed and listening to the ocean whooshing by the hull is music to our ears - until there this peace is interrupted.

We bubble wrap most glass jars and bottles, and discretely shove a tea towel into a cupboard to stop things dancing around when we need to. Grippy rubber and silicone pads stop things rolling around on flat surfaces. Then there is a clunk, clunk from a starboard cupboard. Could it be that last bottle of very fine South African Pinotage that was stowed at the last minute?

Then there is the creaking on deck from the new genoa sheaves. As the wind fills out the genoa, a steady groaning on deck permeates the whole of the boat. We had these sheaves replaced by Associated Rigging in Cape Town. They had groaned all the way down and across the Indian Ocean last year and after inspection showed some cracking and lots of wear.

Armed with spanners and Harken One Drop, Neil sat on deck and lubricated the bolts inside the new sheaves. The groaning immediately stopped - you just have to love a product that lives up to its name. Back to silent sailing, what a joy.

We've had a magic sailing day, covered 165 nautical miles in the past 24 hours. Only 1133 miles to go to St. Helena.

Thursday, 28 April 2016

Baby, It's Cold Outside

The South Atlantic Ocean welcomed us with very light winds, but cold weather and 5 meter swells when we departed Cape Town on Monday afternoon. After three days of sailing the water temperature has risen 4.5 degrees to 18.5, and the air temperature is becoming acceptable - just.

Crystal Blues was farewelled by dolphins, penguins and sea lions as we motored out of Cape Town Harbour, where we spent a frustrating few hours re-calibrating our two autopilot systems prior to setting a true course north and west. The big swell has us rolling uncomfortably for the first day or so, but that has all settled down and we're now scooting along nicely towards St. Helena Island. We've covered 392 nautical miles, and have just 1322 miles to go - this will be our longest passage since we departed Australia 11 years ago.

For the first two days we had a personal escort - a group of sea lions slip streaming in our wake, doing aerobatics and generally playing up, though they've now left us and we are content to watch the many albatross, petrels, shearwaters and gannets that constantly surround the boat, soaring over wave crests and zooming through the troughs.

All is well on board, though we picked up some kelp in the propeller departing Cape Town. Most of it was thrown off but something has lodged somewhere as the blades are not folding as they should, which causes the prop shaft to rotate when we are sailing. With leather gloved hands we've slowed the shaft down to a stop and then jammed a wooden block between the hull and the shaft coupling nuts - it's now locked, and I can wait until we reach St. Helena before diving to clear the problem. Ley has done her usual incredible job of provisioning for the several long passages coming up - we have over 5500 nautical miles to travel before the end of June. Already she's baking muffins and planning our menus well in advance. If the weather holds we should be in St. Helena in 8 or 9 days.

Friday, 22 April 2016

Lubrication 101 - Use Something That Doesn't Damage Things ....

More than 12 years back we were shown just how incredibly slippery McLube Sailkote dry lubricant spray really is. However the spray can doesn't detail the contents, and we didn't want to use anything with silicon on a painted deck, so we chased down the manufacturer for details.

Eventually, in a late night call from Australia, I spoke to an engineer in the USA, who explained that the contents were actually chemically milled, microscopic teflon ball bearings, floating in a propellant that evaporates completely.  When you spray on McLube Sailkote, the micro ball bearings stick to the surface using static charge only - sure they eventually get washed away, but they last long enough to be amazingly beneficial.  The great thing is that they don't gum up the works - ever.  There is no build up of wax or chemical gunk to attract salt, moisture and dirt.

Looks Pretty, But It Doesn't Roll Anymore
On Crystal Blues this means we spray-lube the mainsail track once or twice a year, and Ley can hand haul the mainsail almost to the top without even using a winch. It is amazing stuff.

We also used it on our Schaefer "Clear-Step" sheaves, that manage the furling lines on deck.

Around five or six years later the Schaefer sheaves started to jam up, and no amount of cleaning or lubrication would get them to work under load.  I could spin them easily, though they sounded a little noisy - it was a mystery that even Schaefer themselves could not solve. This lead to us replacing them with an alternate product here in Cape Town, at reasonable expense to our boat budget (and that's another story).

Here in Cape Town we spotted a new McLube product called One Drop on the shelves of the distributor.  The technical representative there explained that the new One Drop liquid product was for "things that turned, including any product that used ball bearing races". The older spray product, he said, was specifically for things that slide.

He went on to explain that the original SailKote spray is just so extremely slippery that it can cause problems in ball bearing systems - the ball bearings actually skid along the surface, instead of rotating as they should (!).  This can lead to flat spots and failure of the ball bearing system.

Suddenly, we know what had happened to all our older Schaefer sheaves - all that fresh water washing and lubing with SailKote had actually created flat spots on the ball bearings.  We can see why the new McLube One Drop liquid product was developed - they needed a product that worked with ball bearing races.

We'll continue to use SailKote spray on our mainsail track, as the Antal track uses carbon faced fiber slides, rather than ball bearings.  But our turning blocks will all receive the One Drop treatment from now on.  Sailkote is ONLY for things that slide...

When A Gale Is Blowing, Watch The Marina Move



It was far worse at Tuzi Gazi Marina in Richard's Bay (story here), where many boats were seriously damaged late last year. But even the "good" marinas here in South Africa can suffer when it blows hard.

This is the main walkway at Royal Cape Yacht Club just when today's expected gale force winds started pumping.  The difference between here and Tuzi Gazi was however immediately obvious - management here were on the spot as it happened, observing and checking.

 All the local marinas are moored in place by heavy chains, tethered to anchors on the bottom - divers inspect and adjust the chains periodically.  However if the chain length isn't exactly right, you can get some surprising events at certain states of the tide.  After raising our fenders we also ran lines off on the port side of Crystal Blues, to haul her clear of the (now exposed) plastic marina floats.

Ship Causes Traffic Jam In Cape Town

AQUASHIELD II Being Delivered For Launching
They do build a lot of boats here in Cape Town - over 200 catamarans are exported every year by local builder Robertson & Caine alone.

This high speed patrol and supply vessel is one of four built by Nautic Africa for the oil industry in Lagos. 36 meters in length, she runs fast at 35 knots, driven by three MTU diesels. Yesterday she traveled much more slowly, stopping traffic at a leisurely walking pace for her 2 kilometer ride to the water.

This was her first voyage, from factory to launch, on the ship lift in Cape Town harbour.  The self propelled carrier is hydraulically driven and remote controlled, with the "driver" walking alongside.  No less than 64 big wheels spread the load on the road.

Our friends here at Associated Rigging, who recently re-rigged Crystal Blues, also benefit from these commercial projects - they supplied the swaged life lines and gates for these vessels, in 316 1x19 wire.

Wednesday, 20 April 2016

Family Memories - A Unique Anemometer

Ley's father, Ray, was a toolmaker, machinist and engineer - there really wasn't much he couldn't build or repair. My own father says that Ray had a tool for every task, no matter how unusual.

During our recent visit home we were given some tools and measuring instruments from Ray's workshop, among them this lovely anemometer.

Opening the wooden case I really wasn't sure what to expect, so the brass and alloy instrument was certainly a surprise. I think every sailor is habitually fascinated by wind speed - it is the one thing we dwell on for many countless hours of our lives.

Nowadays, the very latest wind instruments use ultrasonic measurements to track wind speed, however I don't think that even the modern instruments could match this one at the low end of the speed range.

I really only have to blow on it very gently to generate readings on those dials, which all seem to be working. An amazing instrument, though not one likely to survive at sea.  We'll keep it safe and dry on land.

In Cape Town, We're Preparing For The Atlantic

Table Mountain, viewed from the northern end of Table Bay                                           
Back in Cape Town we're been very busy preparing Crystal Blues for the passage north, up the Atlantic. New sheaves for the genoa cars are one of the items we are waiting for, and they just might be here tomorrow.  Additional Admiralty paper charts (for emergencies) and 25 liters of Jotun anti-fouling paint are also on the way.

With Rolf and Irene, eating our way around Cape Town.
We've had time to farewell many local friends, including Rolf and Irene Fricke of the cruising catamaran Ketoro (they have a nice blogsite here - check their cruising notes for the Indian Ocean) We first met them in Thailand some years back, and they've been great friends, inveterate tour guides and great information sources here in South Africa - we really look forward to seeing them again out cruising.

Today we topped off our petrol stocks for the outboard motors, and tomorrow Ley will shop for fresh fruits and vegetables. We have full diesel and water tanks, and most systems have been tested while sitting here at the dock.  Now we just need a weather window.  We are very late in the season, with lighter trade winds and the winter lows starting to roll in from the west, complicating the weather here down south.  So we may need to motor north for a day or so, to escape the influence of the cape and pick up the trades - we'll see.  Departure may be this coming weekend, with luck.

It is 1700 nautical miles to St. Helena, then another 700nm to Ascension Island, before we start on the bigger passage of 2900nm to the Azores.  By the time we reach Europe, hopefully in late June, we'll have sailed around 6,500 nautical miles.  A lot of ground to cover...and yes, we have plenty of books to read !

Do You have One Of These ? It's A Ronstan RF879...

This foot block is a "venerable" Ronstan RF879, proudly made in Australia until several years ago. It is a double sheave version that on Crystal Blues we use for a couple of important tasks around the deck.

Do you have one of these for sale ?

If so we'd like to hear from you - I'd like one to install and one as a spare, if at all possible.

You can contact us by simply commenting on this blog post, or by our email address in the top right corner of the blog home page. Let us know!

Tuesday, 19 April 2016

Family Time In Australia

Back in Australia we were fortunate to stay with our good friends Ray and Jan Pitt, who are regular visitors to Crystal Blues. We lived with them in Williamstown and at their holiday home on the south coast at Fairhaven, near the start of the Great Ocean Road. The image above shows the view across the inlet to the lighthouse, from their balcony. 

We were also able to spend time with our families, specially sweet with grandchildren Harrison and Sam, who with their parents have now relocated back to Melbourne following two years living in Singapore. Harrison is now at school in Williamstown while Sam is still learning to cause a commotion like his big brother. Splashing in the bath isn't half of it ...

Ley and I also visited my brother Peter's holiday home at Blairgowrie on the Mornington Peninsular, right on the edge of the vineyard country that has blossomed south of Melbourne. Yes
we drank some wine, but we were also able to spend a morning with Peter onboard his classic timber fishing boat.

Back in Melbourne I was able to crew onboard Peter's very competitive A35 race boat Moneypenny (see the Moneypenny stories here & here).  Did I say crew? I was more like slow moving mobile ballast - it's amazing how fast a well tuned race crew can move and work. Completely opposite to the slow and steady approach we adopt when short-handed cruising. The good news for the Moneypenny crew was a series win in the Wednesday night club racing, which draws a big fleet from around Port Philip Bay. Ley and I were there for the prize giving dinner after the final race, sharing a table with the very happy crew.
That's Peter in the back row, looking bearded like me, getting fresh with his "Other Wife" - partner in Moneypenny, Tony Spencer.














Wednesday, 30 March 2016

Vale Edith Worrall


Seen here on the aft deck of Crystal Blues, Ley's mother "Edie" was always an enthusiastic visitor and loved her fishing - she spent countless hours on board trailing a line in the water.

Married to husband Raymond for  an impressive 65 years, she was cheerful, optimistic and delightfully opinionated.

Edie and Ray traveled widely around Australia, often meeting up with Ley and I in Sydney or on the Gold Coast when we were sailing the Australian coast.

Advancing years did limit her mobility, yet one of my fondest memories is of Edie boarding Crystal Blues in her own unique way. Standing on the dock, she rolled her body under the life lines and ended up flat on her back on the side deck - mission accomplished, she said it was easier than climbing over the wires. The tricky bit was getting her vertical again !

Following Ray's death some three years ago Edie continued to live at home alone.  A little frustrated with life and the world, if anything she became more opinionated, but continued to enjoy her grand children and growing numbers of great grand children.

She passed away on March 10th at 92 years of age, after a short illness, with both Ley and her sister, Sandra, by her side. She's finally dancing with Ray again.

Saturday, 5 March 2016

Cape Town Clean Up - We're Traveling Home

We're leaving Crystal Blues in the marina at RCYC here in Cape Town and traveling to Australia to be with family for a few weeks.

In fact Ley is already home in Melbourne, and I fly on Qantas tomorrow.

I have been shutting down systems, pickling the water maker etc, and have removed most of the lines from the deck.  These have all been laundered as you can see in the photo here.

Cape Town has very clean air, except when the South Easterly blows, bringing with it the dust and dirt off Table Mountain.

Tuesday, 1 March 2016

Stack Packs R Us - The New Main Sail Bag Is Finished

It took almost 5 days of solid work, but the new stack pack is complete and fitted to the boom.

Ley is seen here, proudly inspecting the bag, which was completed just 10 minutes before she departed for Cape Town airport - she's off to Melbourne for a while and I will follow in a few days time.

The bag was made from gray Sunbrella with black mesh inserts made of Serge Ferari Stamoid mesh (and isn't that material expensive...).

The bag is stitched with Tenara thread made by Gore (of Goretex fame) in the USA. The thread will certainly outlast the fabric, as we proved with the last main sail bag, where the fabric eventually disintegrated but every seam held.

Our sails are also stitched with Tenara, which we believe has a potential life of 25 years - if only the fabrics could last that long.

Thanks to Royal Cape Yacht Club for providing a great working space for us - most of the job was cut and sewn in the Regatta Function Room at RCYC.

Monday, 29 February 2016

No Images ? Normal Service May Resume Shortly ...

It seems that our latest blog posts, published from here in South Africa, are not replicating very well across the internet, with variations from region to region.  While people in some regions are unable to see the images, they are viewed perfectly well in other countries.

We understand this is a problem related to Google Images, and the way that images are replicated on multiple servers in different regions.  All our images are hosted on the Google Photos site, so right now there is little we can personally do to rectify the issue.  However we do apologise, and ask that you return in a day or so when Google may actually allow you to see the photos we have so carefully prepared ... image replication (globally) can apparently take some time.

Sunday, 28 February 2016

Botswana Safari #3 - Travel Details

Some readers have asked for details on our recent Botswana trip, so here is the information on where we went and how we traveled.  The map is interactive - click on the icons for images from that site. On the map below, we started at the top and traveled anti-clockwise.

We specially wanted to see Botswana because of the fantastic book series we had read - The Number One Ladies Detective Agency, by Alexander McCall Smith.  Those books spoke vividly of the spirit, courtesy  and graciousness that is everywhere in Botswana.

The best game viewing was in the Chobe National Park (right at the top) and in the Moremi Game Reserve, in the south west.  However, you will see game wherever you travel in these regions - baboons and warthogs run around the towns, and elephants have right-of-way corridors between the towns and the farms.  Giraffe run along side the highways even 200km from any national parks - the wildlife is everywhere.



We flew in and out of Kasane in northern Botswana, which is only a few hours drive from Victoria Falls. It would have been more efficient to start in Kasane (or Victoria Falls) and finish in Maun, had we known the state of the tracks when we booked.

4WD Truck Rental - Bushlore

There are many companies offering 4WD rental vehicles at varying prices, the cheaper units being not so well equipped. Our truck was a Toyota Land Cruiser long wheel base utility, with a six cylinder diesel and a custom camper rig fitted into the utility tray. It came from Bushlore in South Africa, one of the more substantial hire operations, who provide excellent equipment. They have bases in Kasane, Victoria Falls, Johannesburg and Windhoek (Namibia). We saw many broken rental vehicles on our travels, but none from Bushlore.

The vehicle was well prepared and completely reliable. Fitted with a spacious fold out tent on the roof, it also had a 12volt refrigerator, second battery system and 100 liter water tank. Folding chairs and a folding stainless steel table stowed in the rig. We carried additional water and fuel on the roof rack. A comprehensive kit of bush travel equipment was included - two spare wheels, tyre repair kit, tow rope, compressor, tyre gauge, high-lift jack, rubber sand tracks, first aid kit etc etc.

On the back of the truck was a cunningly effective Braii plate (BBQ) that strapped to one of the spare wheels. The camper rig included compartments for everything, including massive slide out drawers for food and supplies storage.  Dual gas bottles with stove tops handled the cooking when we didn't have a fire burning. Setting up camp usually took about 20 minutes after arrival.

Detailed specifications for the truck and equipment can be downloaded here.

The Bushlore vehicles are priced from the base in Johannesburg - we paid additional fee's to take delivery in Kasane, but it saved us one or two days of highway travel to make the drive north into Botswana.

The truck was supplied with basic maps and comprehensive wildlife guides. GPS navigation and satellite telephones are options - we carried our own satellite phone, and used our iPads for GPS navigation running the Tracks 4 Africa application. With this free application we were able to purchase just the maps we wanted (Botswana) for US$29.00.  Included with the maps was a complete interactive database of the parks, reserves and camps, plus special features, viewing spots, shopping and fueling locations etc. The camp database included photography, service and contact details, so we were able to contact the parks and camps in advance for bookings and confirmations.

Detailed GPS navigation was an essential tool on our travels in Botswana - we found many other visitors lost or unsure of their travel options, as they did not have good mapping or position information.

What To Wear - And Not To Wear

It may seem bleeding obvious, but you do need to wear the right clothing.

For example, if you want to wear thongs in the showers, don't even think about wearing them to and from the shower block. The African undergrowth is full of spikes and prickles that will make you regret your decision.

This photo shows the spikes I collected on just one visit to the shower - the real problem is that some of the spikes are long enough to go right through the rubber sole. Both Ley and I suffered "spiked foot" from this silliness!

Do wear light cotton or synthetic clothing for the daytime, but be prepared to rug-up in the evenings. You certainly don't need to visit a safari outfitter - just be smart about it. The organised tour groups in brand new co-ordinated safari clothing stood out so clearly at the airport - it really did feel like Disneyland - they were all so clean and shiny. Of course they stayed in electric fenced hotels and ate in restaurants every evening... no spikes in their shoes. Those groups fly with guides into the Okavango Delta in light aircraft, no dirt tracks for them.

You can have a fine time touring in Botswana that way, but you won't have your own personal travel experiences - it wouldn't be half the fun! And you will never sit by the river in the moonlight, watching the elephants graze just meters away ...

Part 1 of our Botswana Land Cruise is here.

Part 2 of our Botswana Land Cruise is here.

Ley Preparing Dinner, While In The Background The Elephants Head For The River








After Watering The Herd Moves Toward Our Camp to Graze In Front Of Us